Manimal – Itaewon

Manimal has been the talk of the town lately. I took all the raving with a grain of salt, not wanting to be disappointed in decent, but not fantastic barbecue. I needn’t have worried – Manimal is scrumptious and totally worth the commute any day.

After you enter through the incredibly steep stairs in the alley on the left side of the building, you’re greeted by the enormous smoker. It has its own little room and takes up about an eighth of the entire dining room floor space. They are not kidding around here. It was a sign of delicious and wonderful things to come.

Like always, we started off with a few adult beverages. Eric got my first choice – the I Shot the Sheriff made with black tea, bourbon and honey. I chose the Lush Blush, featuring vodka, fresh maple syrup, and strawberries. Both were great, refreshing summer cocktails that went perfectly with the wonderful breeze from the open windows at our counter seats. The Sheriff was a smooth, sweet concoction that tasted a little like an iced hot toddy. The Lush was very sweet, but with just the right amount of maple syrup. Both were complex and mellow enough to be enjoyed by even the pickiest of drinkers.

Chile, cheesy heaven in cast iron

I had a bit of a crisis when I had to choose side dishes. I simply wanted them all. Fresh baked corn bread, bacon braised beans… how could I leave without sampling everything? We finally settled on the chipotle lime potato salad and the green chile mac and cheese. I really don’t think you can go wrong at this place. The mac and cheese featured a flavorful and spicy sauce that gave depth to an old classic. The potato salad was constructed beautifully, red potatoes and hard boiled egg elevated with the addition of the chipotle sauce and tasty mustard. The slightly more complex flavors took a side I usually avoid and made it into something I couldn’t stop eating.

To borrow an expression -These ribs? I can’t even.

The ribs were just this side of perfection. It’s not an exaggeration to say these were the best I’ve had in Korea. The rub and glaze were amazing – they’re so good naked, they don’t even need a lick of sauce. The meat was tender and smoky. Describing how good these are is hard to do without more synonyms for delicious. I really need to invest in an eating thesaurus. The brisket, in comparison, was definitely tasty, especially when doused in the vinegary, slightly spicy barbecue sauce, but not nearly as mind-blowing. Do yourself a huge favor – go early and grab a slab of ribs before they sell out. I’m not kidding. We got to Manimal exactly when they opened, and the ribs were 86’ed before we ordered dessert. We were told by staff that the chicken is stellar, the pulled pork certainly looked good, and the brisket was indeed quite yummy, but the ribs are definitely the star of the whole show.

One of the biggest surprises of the night was dessert. We usually plan on going to a second place, since we can usually end up with something a little better at a place that specializes in sweets. Don’t make that mistake and miss Manimal’s ice cream, though. House made, very vanilla ice cream served with bananas, crispy vanilla wafers and crumbles, and chunks of sweet cake. Our waiter told us we needed to try this, and he was completely correct. It’s delicious for being so deceivingly simple, and is totally one of those things I’ll be back for over and over.

Manimal is a pretty small place, and it’s probably a good idea to call for a reservation or at least show up right when they open. A lot of the seating is counter seating at the windows, and there’s really not a lot of room for a group any bigger than 6. As I mentioned before, they may start running out of ribs, corn bread, brisket, and other items as the night goes on, so show up early and make sure you order your goods right away. Don’t miss the ribs. You’ll hate yourself when you see other people eating them. This place is definitely going to be a regular stop for me.

***EDIT – Looks like Manimal doesn’t take reservations – make sure you get there early!

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Jeongtong Chuncheon Dak Galbi – Jeongja

Driving through the densely packed residential neighborhood of Jeongja-Dong, east of the Tancheon, we were initially concerned we may have gotten bad directions. Weaving through poorly parked cars, oblivious pedestrians, and the ever-present, reckless scooter delivery-men, it took us longer than anticipated to locate this restaurant. We first identified the place by the smell of spicy grilled chicken permeating the air for hundreds of feet in every direction, then by the double-parked vehicles on both streets adjacent to the building. Twenty minutes later, we found a spot to park and followed our noses back to the restaurant. Next time, we’ll bike or walk from outside the neighborhood.

The menu is simple, consisting of only three items: Jeongtong Dak Galbi, Fried Rice, and Soju or Beer for 10,000, 2000, and 3000 KRW respectively. We ordered Dak Galbi (literally “chicken rib”) for two, and one beer. We were also given a bottle of Coke as service – “free,” for you Yanks.

The dak galbi is cooked at your table, in a purpose-made cast iron dish. The chicken is marinated in a chili pepper paste, then sliced and grilled first. Soon after, a heaping helping of cabbage is added, along with sweet potatoes, onions, tteok (chewy, glutenous rice tubes), and optional garlic and green chilies. Being the ignorant, impatient gringos we are, we took a small helping of the bright red stir fry to sample when we deemed it ready. Minutes later, when our hosts knew the meal was actually done, they delivered the finishing touch of perilla leaves and motioned to us that it was now ready to eat. Oh well.

The dish is very flavorful, though surprisingly mild, given the deep orange-red color. Fortunately, in true Korean style, we were provided a side of gochujang, or spicy chili bean paste, to bring it up a notch or two. Amanda told me it was excellent as-is; I thought a pinch of the paste was necessary for each small plate I ate. Overall, it was sweet, slightly spicy, and the perilla gave hints of mint as a nice contrast. To accompany the dish, we were given a small bowl of hard-boiled quail eggs. Some of the other diners added these to the pot, although more ate them separately. I found them best when dipped in gochujang.

Once your dish is nearly empty, a server will ask you if you want an order of bokkeumbap, or fried rice. Although we were both already full, everyone else seemed to be eating fried rice with their meals, so we settled on one order. I regret that I had but one stomach to fill that day, because this was arguably the best part of the meal. Our server separated our few remaining drumsticks and pieces of tteok, then poured a plateful of cooked white rice on top of the leftover dak galbi. Using the plate and a spatula as implements, she stirred the ingredients together, then spread the pile out in the pan to allow it to crisp up. Despite coming to the restaurant hungry, we were unable to finish the single serving of rice.

We left the restaurant full, happy, and smelling strongly of dak galbi. For 25,000 Won, we had enough food to satisfy us for an entire day. Little wonder, then, that the small dining room was completely full the entire time we were there. It was a popular destination for locals old and young alike, and it seemed as if most of them were regulars. Bottom line: delicious, filling food served in a warm, friendly environment. Jeongtong is a definite winner in our book.

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Chosim Han-U 초심한유 – Unjung/West Pangyo

I’ll start by making a bold claim – this place has the best quality beef I’ve had in any traditional Korean restaurant.

If you’ve ever had Korean BBQ, the method of cooking may be simple and familiar and the sides pretty standard. All the salads and peppers and tofu were good, but the beef is the single best reason to try this place. The quality of the marbled, delicious slab that Eric picked was awesome and the barbecued bites nestled in pieces of grilled onion or mushroom were unbelievably tasty.

Before you sit down to start barbecuing, you choose your piece of beef from the cooler at the front of the store. The choices are mouthwatering – I really hadn’t seen steaks look this good since I arrived in Korea. Throughout the restaurant are signs describing the fact that the quality of the meat is the most important aspect of their offerings. Chosim Han-U uses local Korean cattle famous for its preferred taste and texture. It’s even considered a “cultural icon” by many Koreans.

If you’re in the mood for traditional Korean barbecue and want beef of premium quality, give Chosim Han-U a shot. The owner is very helpful and willing to jump in at any point you need assistance picking out your supper or grilling your goodies.

Linus’ BBQ Lunch – Itaewon

We first went to Linus’ this summer shortly after they opened. The promise of good ol’ Alabama barbecue was much too attractive to pass up. Linus himself lived in Alabama before returning to Korea to open his BBQ joint, and he seems to have picked up a true love for the good stuff.

This is one of our favorite places in Seoul. The ribs are always tender, the bbq sauces tangy and spicy, the deep fried mac and cheese balls stick-in-your-arteries good. During the winter, the patio is covered and heated, expanding the small dining room to accommodate the growing dining crowds.

We found ourselves in Itaewon on errands and stopped in for lunch. This trip, we ordered the crack tea and an old fashioned. Linus’ bar started off simple and small, but has grown over past months – the bar menu is incorporating new drinks all the time.

I kept it simple with the pulled pork sandwich completed by “skinny ass fries” and coleslaw. Whenever I bite into one of these, I always contemplate ordering a second sandwich – they’re that good.

Eric went for Da Bomb – a brisket sandwich covered in cheese and topped with deep fried pickles. If that wasn’t enough food, we also ordered a side of the smokey mac & cheese. I happen to prefer my Linus’ mac & cheese in fried ball form, but the standard way of serving is also delicious.

Linus’ is a stellar BBQ joint. The food is always great, and Linus and his staff are always friendly and inviting and seem to have a genuine love for making good food and drink. Check them out the next time you’re hankering for some barbecue – you won’t be disappointed.

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